Fall maintenance is a crucial part of maintaining a lush, healthy lawn. During the fall months, grass is actively storing nutrients and energy to prepare for the winter season. Proper lawn maintenance throughout the fall can help strengthen root systems, improve disease resistance, and ultimately lead to a healthier, stronger lawn. 

Mowing

Grasses, especially cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, continue to grow through the fall. Because of this fall growth, continue mowing your lawn until the first frost hits. In mid to late September, adjust your mowing height to 2.5-3 inches. This length is long enough to allow effective photosynthesis to take place but short enough to prevent the grass from matting under the snow. Along with adjusting your mowing height, you can also adjust your mowing frequency. As grass growth begins to slow down, adjust to mowing once a week or on an as-needed basis to keep the grass at the proper height. Regular mowing in the fall can also help to mulch leaves and other fallen plant material, which can help to return nutrients to the soil. 

Watering

While the cooling temperatures may tempt you to bring in your hoses and turn off your sprinklers, lawns may still need weekly watering through the fall. Ideally, your lawn needs about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall. If rainfall is scarce during the fall, try to do deeper waterings less frequently. This style of watering will help to support your grass while encouraging the roots to grow deeper into the soil. To reduce the risk of fungal development, water in the mornings so that your lawn has plenty of time to dry before nightfall. Monitor your lawn for signs of improper watering, such as wilting, discoloration, fungal diseases, or premature dormancy, and adjust your watering schedule if needed. 

Fertilizing

Fall fertilizing helps to promote strong roots and provides essential nutrients that your lawn needs to fuel growth next year. Proper timing and application can have a significant impact on your lawn’s winter survival as well as spring growth. Choose a slow-release granular fertilizer that has a balance of nitrogen and potassium, such as a 24-0-10 formula. Nitrogen will help to promote leaf growth, while potassium will aid in root development. Apply the fertilizer around mid-September to early-October. This gives your lawn enough time to absorb the nutrients and put on some late-season root growth. Use a broadcast spreader to evenly apply the fertilizer and water thoroughly after application. Always follow the product’s recommended application rate to prevent burning.

Aeration

Aeration is an often-overlooked aspect of fall lawn care that can have a significant impact on your lawn’s health. Over the years, your soil becomes compacted, and thatch accumulates. Regular aeration, once every couple of years, can alleviate soil compaction, prevent thatch buildup, and help increase water and nutrient movement within the soil. For the most effective aeration, use a core aerator on a moist lawn. Dry soil can prevent aerators from penetrating deep enough to be effective, and wet soil can plug up your machine. Properly aerated lawns should have 20-40 holes per square foot, so you may have to do several passes with the machine. 

Late Summer Seeding

One of the best times to start a new lawn or to overseed an existing lawn is mid-August through mid-September. Late summer seedings have many advantages over other forms of seeding. First,  grass seeds germinate quickly as the soil temperatures are already warm from the summer. Second, the warm days and cool nights during the fall promote rapid root and turf growth. Third, few weeds germinate in the late summer, so there is less weed competition to choke out the new grass. 

When seeding a new lawn, the first step is to prepare your soil. To establish a lawn, you need 4 to 6 inches of good soil. If you have heavy, clay, or poor soil, it may be necessary to mix in new topsoil to the top 6 inches of soil.  After the soil is prepped, apply your grass seed of choice with a drop-type seeder to ensure that the grass seed is uniformly distributed. Make sure to follow the application rates found on your seed bag, as different seed mixtures may have different application rates. Once the seed has been spread, lightly rake the area to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. The grass seed should be covered to a depth of 1/8th to 1/4th inch. To promote seed germination and prevent soil erosion, mulch the area with clean, weed-free straw. Mulching the area also helps to keep the soil moist and prevents the soil surface from crusting. Apply your mulch so that 50 percent of the soil is still visible through the straw. Too dense of mulch can smother the emerging seedlings. After your initial watering, water the area frequently and lightly so that the seedbed does not dry out during the germination period. The goal is to keep the top inch of soil continuously moist.  Depending on the temperature and humidity, daily watering may be necessary.

When overseeding a lawn, ensuring good seed-to-soil contact is crucial for successful overseeding. In years when you aerate, you can overseed right after aeration as the soil holes provide good soil contact. For years when you do not aerate, mow your lawn to a height of 1.5 to 2 inches before overseeding. This helps to reduce the competition from your existing lawn. If there is a lot of dead grass, rake to de-thatch the area to expose the soil underneath before spreading your seed. Once you have spread your seed, water frequently and lightly so that the seedbed does not dry out. Keep the top inch of soil continuously moist through the germination period. To prevent burning of the new seedlings, wait a few weeks after the turfgrass has emerged before applying a starter fertilizer. 

Weed Control 

Fall is the best time to get control of perennial broadleaf weeds, as these weeds are actively taking up nutrients in preparation for winter. Broadleaf herbicides that are applied in the fall will be absorbed by the weed’s foliage and taken up by the root system, resulting in the death of the weeds. When using herbicides, follow all product instructions carefully and spray when temperatures are cool to prevent burning of your grass. 

Raking and Leaf Removal

In the fall, leaf debris can accumulate and block light from reaching the turfgrass. If the leaves are not raked and removed, the lack of light can lead to lawn dieback and patchy areas of weak grass. Leaves can be collected by raking, blowing, or using a collection bag while mowing. These leaves can then be disposed of or added to a compost pile. Make sure all of the leaves are removed before it snows to prevent fungal problems such as snow mold from developing.

As the weather warms up and the snow melts, some people may notice browning on parts of their evergreens. This browning is caused by winter desiccation also known as winterburn. Winterburn damage can range from mild cases, that just need a little pruning, to severe cases that can lead to the death of the plant. 

Causes

In the winter when the ground is frozen, evergreen plants are unable to replace the water that is lost through their foliage. This loss of moisture leads to the browning and death of the foliage.  Many factors can contribute to an increase in water loss and lead to winterburn damage including:

Lack of moisture during the growing season: Evergreen plants that go into the winter already stressed from a lack of moisture are more likely to suffer from winterburn. 
Age of the plant: Young or newly planted evergreens do not have as established of root systems compared to older evergreens. This can exacerbate winterburn problems since these plants cannot draw up as much water from their roots.
Extreme winter conditions: Harsh winter sun and extreme wind can result in extra foliage moisture loss. This is why you will typically see winterburn on the south side of trees or in trees that are planted in unprotected areas. Extreme temperature fluctuations in the winter can also contribute to winterburn damage. 
Lack of snow cover: Snow cover acts like an insulator in the winter and can help not only moderate the soil temperature, but it can also provide much-needed moisture in the early spring. When this snow cover is absent, evergreens are exposed to more extreme soil temperature fluctuations and overall drier soil conditions which can make them more prone to browning. 
Late fertilization: Fertilizing evergreens in the fall can lead to a flush of new growth that is unable to harden off before winter arrives.

Treating Winterburn

Foliage that has already browned is most likely dead and will not green up again. This does not mean, however, that the entire branch is dead. In most evergreens, the buds are more cold-hardy than the needles and may still produce new growth in the spring. Mild cases of winterburn damage can usually be pruned out and after a few years, new foliage will fill in damaged areas. In severe cases where all or most of the tree is brown, the plant is unlikely to recover and should be replaced. 

For arborvitaes, boxwoods, junipers, and yews, it is best to wait until mid-spring before pruning. This way you can see the new growth and can get a better idea of where to prune. When pruning, cut the branches back to the point where you begin to see new growth. If you are unsure whether the whole branch is dead, you can gently scratch the bark on the affected branch. If there is green underneath the bark, the branch is still alive and has the possibility of forming new foliage. If it is brown under the bark or if the branches are dry and snap easily, it is likely that the branch is most likely dead and should be pruned. It is always good to check your branches in multiple areas as the tips of the branches may be dead but further down there may be life in the branch.

Pines, spruce, and fir trees usually do not have to be pruned since the new growth at the tips of the branches will usually replace the damaged needles. 

Prevention

While you may not be able to completely prevent winterburn, there are some steps that you can take to help reduce the risk and severity of winterburn. 

One of the most important ways to help prevent winterburn is proper watering of your plants throughout the year. Proper watering is especially important in years where there are long extended dry periods. We want our evergreens to go into the winter well-hydrated so it is important to continue to water your plants up until the soil freezes. It is best to use a soaker or drip hose to water your evergreens as this ensures that the water is penetrating deep into the soil and reaching the roots. See our Watering 101 guide for more information about how to properly water your plants. 

Picking the proper place for your evergreens can also help to prevent winterburn. Planting your evergreens in a protected area that is shielded from the drying winter sun and wind can help reduce the risk or severity of winterburn damage.  Evergreens planted in unprotected areas can be wrapped in burlap to protect them through the winter. Wait to wrap your trees until the temperatures are in the mid-30s and be sure to remove the burlap when the temperatures begin to heat up in the spring to avoid overheating your plants. 

Another way to protect your plants is by applying an anti-desiccant or anti-transpirant spray. These sprays create a protective coating on the evergreen needles that helps to lock the moisture in. 

Lastly, avoid pruning or fertilizing your evergreens in the fall. Both pruning and fertilizing can lead to a flush of new growth that is unable to harden off before the freezing temperatures arrive. This tender new growth is at high risk of winter damage. 

After a warm summer season, any houseplant you may have had outside needs to be acclimated to your home’s temperature, lighting, and humidity. While you won’t kill your plant by just tossing it inside, acclimating it can help prevent shock and give you time to locate and treat any pests that may be tagging along. 

Acclimating

Most houseplants, succulents, and cacti prefer to be kept in temperatures above 50℉, so it’s a good idea to keep an eye on the nighttime temperatures in the fall. If the nighttime temps begin to dip into the 50s, it is time to begin transitioning your plants indoors. It is recommended to begin adjusting your plants to indoor conditions over a 7-10 day period to prevent shock. On the first day, you want to bring your plant indoors in its designated spot for an hour or two before returning it back outside. You will then want to gradually increase the number of hours your houseplants are indoors every day. By the end of the 7-10 day period, your plant will be acclimated to its new environment and you can leave it in its spot all day long. As your plant adjusts to its new home, it is not uncommon for it to drop a few leaves. 

Pests

While your plants were enjoying their time outside, some pests may have found a new home in your houseplants. These pests love to hide on stems, under leaves, or in small crevices so it is always a good idea to do a thorough check-through of your plant. Any visible pests should be treated before bringing your houseplants indoors to prevent bringing these pests into your home. Mealie bugs, spider mites, and aphids are some common pests that can be treated with neem oil, insecticides, etc. Even if you can’t see any pests, it is a good idea to treat your houseplants anyway to reduce the risk of pest problems during the winter. While pests won’t disappear completely after the first treatment, sticking with the product’s recommended treatment schedule and doing thorough check-throughs of your plant throughout the fall and winter is important to prevent any infestations.  

Location

As we have fewer hours of sunlight in the winter, it is important to find the correct light requirements for your plant’s needs. Desert plants, such as cacti and succulents, will prefer bright direct lighting while other plants, like pothos and monstera, will thrive in more bright indirect light. It is important to familiarize yourself with your plants and their lighting needs.  If there is not sufficient lighting, over time you will see plants start to get etiolated (pale and stretched out due to lack of light). If this happens, you can find a brighter location or you can supplement with grow lights. Not sure what kind of light you have in your house, check out our houseplant lighting guide. 

Another thing to take into consideration when choosing your location is drafts and vents. It is best to avoid putting your houseplants near any drafts, doors to the outside, leaky windows, or vents as these places can cause temperature fluctuations that can stress your plants. This stress can lead to your houseplants dropping leaves and looking overall unhappy. 

Adjust your watering

Now that the growing season is over, your plants will begin to slow their growth or even go dormant during the winter months. As the growth slows, your plant will begin drawing up less water and thus you will have to water your plants less often. It is always recommended to check your soil before watering instead of sticking to a strict watering schedule. Look out for common signs of over-watering such as yellowing leaves and fungus gnats. If you see these signs, allow more time between watering so that your plant can sufficiently dry out. As your plant’s growth slows it will also begin to take up fewer nutrients. Because of this, you can reduce your fertilizing over the winter months. You can either dilute your fertilizer or you can stop fertilizing until the spring months.

Although it isn’t officially fall until late September, once school starts we know we all start to transition seasons.

The leaves start changing and the temperatures get a little lower, giving us more energy to get things done we’ve been putting off during the 90+ degree days. 

SO WHAT ABOUT INSTALLING NEW PLANTS?

Believe it or not, fall is an incredible time to get your planting done. The soil is still warm while the air is cooling down which allows the plant to focus on root development. 

Trees and shrubs can be planted through October, whereas perennials should be planted by the first part of October to give them enough time to establish their roots before hitting freezing temperatures.

While fall is often cooler and rainy, newly installed plants shouldn’t be forgotten when it comes to watering, especially if it is hot, dry or windy. Before you pull your hoses in for the winter, Continue to water perennials once a week (1 gallon), shrubs once every 7-10 days (3-5 Gallons) and trees once every 10-14 days (5-7 Gallons) until the ground freezes.

Don’t be alarmed when you don’t see growth on your new plants, that’s actually a good thing. We do not recommend using fertilizer past the beginning of August, but would suggest using a root stimulator instead. 

Fall planting is with the intention of root development and getting off to a good start in their new home. Come spring, your plants will grow as if they’re already had a full season under their belt.

WHAT ABOUT MUMS? 

Well, mums are a little tricky to overwinter in the midwest (Yes, even Hardy Mums).  They add great color in your planters after the summer annuals are done thriving.  However, if you plan on planting them in the ground, make sure to plant early and add a protective barrier around the base of the plant with mulch or leaves to insulate the root system during the winter months.

In fact, we recommend adding a layer of mulch around the base of all plants for extra insulation, even established plants benefit from the protection.

Pruning is an essential part of maintaining your shrub’s shape, vigor, and overall health. Mastering how and when to prune different shrub varieties will lead to beautiful, lush shrubs that you can enjoy all season long. Below is our general guide on when to prune, different methods of pruning, and tips for successful pruning. 

When to Prune

For shrubs that bloom on new growth, it is best to prune them in either the late winter or early spring. When pruning these shrubs, the ideal time to prune is after the hard frosts have passed but before plants break dormancy. 

Prune in early spring: most hydrangea, potentilla, sumac, spirea, shrub roses (mid-May), grapes, arborvitae (April and May), and yew (April and May).

For shrubs that bloom in the spring on old wood or last season’s growth, it is best to prune them right after they have finished blooming. This allows the plant to spend the rest of the year developing new shoots and blooms for the following year. 

Prune after blooming: lilac, forsythia, weigela, mock orange, rhododendron, viburnum, pink flowering almond, and magnolia.

As a general rule, you do not want to do a lot of shrub pruning in the fall. During the fall, shrubs are slowing their growth and hardening off their branches to prepare for the winter. Pruning your shrubs in the fall can stimulate new growth that may not be able to harden off before winter arrives. This can cause dieback of the stem in the winter which can lead to more damage to your plants. There are a few exceptions to this fall pruning rule including pruning out dead, diseased, or damaged branches. These branches can be detrimental to your shrubs over the winter as they can harbor disease.

How to Prune

One method of pruning is simply deadheading. Deadheading is done by cutting off the old flower cluster right at its base just above the new side shoots. Deadheading allows the plant to allocate more energy to developing new roots and shoots. This method is great for your shrubs that you are happy with the size and shape of. When you are deadheading, also take an overall look at your plant and prune out any damaged branches.

The second method of pruning is called tipping off. This method is used to control the size and shape of your shrubs. For this method, the entire top of the stem is cut back to the side shoot at the height/width desired. It is a good idea to start by pruning out any stems that are diseased or damaged and then continue pruning branches until you get your desired size and shape. 

The third method of pruning is rejuvenation pruning. This method is best used for old, overgrown shrubs that are no longer as full as they once were. In this method, stems that are old, diseased, or overall less productive are cut down to the ground. This allows new, more productive shoots to grow in place of the old unproductive shoots. A general rule of thumb is to cut back no more than 1/3rd of the shrub at a time. In this method, that would mean you would cut back 1/3rd of the old stems to the ground one year and leave the rest of the stems alone. You would repeat this process for the following two years until all of the old stems have been cut back.

Pruning Tips

Use sharp and clean tools. Sharp tools not only make your work easier but plants also heal faster from clean cuts. If you are cutting out diseased stems make sure to disinfect your pruners before you continue pruning to reduce the risk of spreading the disease.
Prune just above the bud at the desired height. Pruning too far above the bud leaves an unsightly stub that can encourage rot. Cutting too low can lead to your bud drying out and can stunt new growth. 
Prune at a 45-degree angle with the lowest point of the cut opposite of the bud. If you cut at an angle greater than 45 degrees, the cut will have a larger surface area that leads to slower healing and a greater risk for disease. 
Only prune 1/3rd of the plant’s mass at a time. Overpruning can stress out your shrubs and harm the plant’s ability to recover and put on new growth. If your shrub needs a major pruning overhaul, spread out your pruning over multiple years.
For lopsided shrubs, prune the shorter/less full side to stimulate branching and new growth that will help to even out the shape of the shrub.

Need help pruning your shrubs? Our Maintenance Division is ready and willing to lend a hand. Contact them today!

As fall begins to set in, it’s time to prepare for cooler temperatures. Below we have compiled a fall garden checklist to make sure you’re ready for fall and to set yourself up for success in the spring.