After the cold winter months, we are all ready for some fresh air and warm sunlight, including our houseplants. In their native environment, many of our favorite plants grow on the forest floor or in the desert, which means any of your plants can go outside with the right conditions. While the warm temperatures, humidity, and monthly fertilizing will help them flourish during the growing season, there are a few things to keep in mind before starting their summer vacation.
Acclimating
Acclimating your plants over 10-14 days outdoors can prevent any stress by slowly adjusting your plants to the change in humidity, temperature, and light conditions. It is recommended to start any plant in the shade for an hour or two at a time and slowly increase the time as the days go on. The cool, early morning sun is okay after the plant has adjusted outside for about two weeks but avoid the hot afternoon sun. Even sun-loving plants need to adjust to prevent sunburn!
Temperature
Tropicals, cactus, and succulents can be sensitive to temps below 50℉ as it can stunt their growth or potentially cause damage. It is important to watch the weather in the spring as we typically have cool nights and warm days. You may have to move your plants indoors on cool nights and back outdoors during the day. Once the weather is consistently above 50-60℉, it is safe to leave your plants outside!
Location
While you may have the perfect spot on your front porch, sunlight, rain, and wind are some factors to think about when choosing an outdoor location. The intense, direct sunlight outdoors can burn some plants’ tender foliage so it is best to place your plant in a shady or mostly shady location. Plants such as Banana Plants, Birds of Paradise, and most cacti can handle full sun but they still need to be gradually acclimated. In the Midwest, we have plenty of wind that can snap stems or blow plants over. While your plant won’t die from a snapped stem, preventing damage will keep your plant looking big and beautiful.
Adjust your watering
Light, temperature, wind, and humidity can change the frequency of watering.
Higher temperatures, wind speeds, lots of light, and low humidity will cause your plant to absorb more water and dry out faster.
Low temperatures, little wind, shade, and high humidity will cause your plant to retain more moisture.
It is always recommended to check your soil before watering and not watering on a schedule as plants needs can vary. If your plant is hit by rain, rainfall over 1” is sufficient to thoroughly water. Any less rain and you may have to additionally water to ensure deep watering.
About Watering
Every plant requires three things air, soil, and, most of all, water. Proper watering is the key to healthy and beautiful plants as homeowners lose far more plants to overwatering than for any other reason. Overwatered plants are unable to uptake oxygen through their roots and are susceptible to issues such as root rot that, if severe, can cause death of the plant. Underwatered plants, however, are unable to absorb nutrients and water leading to wilting and eventually death.
How Much Water
Many factors play a role in how much water each specific plant needs. These factors include, but are not limited to: plant variety, temperature, humidity, wind, soil type, and soil condition. It is important to always check your soil before grabbing your hose or watering can. If the soil is still wet, wait to water until the soil is dry. We recommend digging down a few inches into the soil to check the moisture level. Sometimes the top of the soil may be dry but when you dig down a few inches, where your plant’s root system is, the soil may still be wet.
Below are our general watering guidelines for newly installed plants:
Trees: Once every two weeks, five to seven gallons of water
Shrubs: Once a week, three to five gallons of water
Perennials: Once a week initially, one gallon of water
Annuals: Once per day or every other day depending on the size of the planter.
Sprinkler Systems
Homeowners are under a mistaken assumption that their lawn needs frequent watering to maintain a healthy green color. Ideally, industry experts recommend running a sprinkler only once or twice a week. Watering your lawn frequently leads to a lawn with a shallow, weak root system since the roots don’t have to go searching for water. This leads to your lawn becoming dependent on a consistent water supply and causes your lawn to be susceptible to browning and dying during hot, dry conditions. If you have sprinklers that hit your landscaping plants, make sure to check your soil before doing any additional watering.
Watering Tips
A good deep watering less often is better than watering a little every day. It is suggested to begin deep watering early on with new plants. Plants that have frequent, shallow watering tend to develop a more shallow and weak root system compared to plants that have less frequent, deeper watering. Plants with strong, extensive root systems are better able to handle stress and drought conditions.
Always test the soil before you water. Some plants can look droopy because of the heat, and not necessarily because they are dry. Make sure the soil is dry before watering.
It is better to err on the side of keeping your soil too dry rather than too wet. The soil needs to dry out between watering for plants to be able to absorb oxygen and live. Consistently wet soil can lead to issues with root rot and other diseases that can eventually kill your plants.
If it rains more than one inch, there is no need to water. Count the rain as your watering day and start your watering cycle over.
Water plants at the base not over the top. Watering on top of the leaves can promote fungus and other leaf diseases. Also, putting super cold water on leaves when it is how outside can damage your plants.
The best time of day to water is in the morning. If you can, water your plants in the morning. That way, they have time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. This also allows them to not stay wet overnight, which can lead to fungus and disease problems.
Some plants need more water than others. Become familiar with your landscape and learn which plants need water more often than others.
If we’ve learned anything about South Dakota it’s that we can never predict what weather spring will bring. While a forecast of sunny days brings excitement, it also reminds us of the work we need to do to get our landscaping in tip-top shape. Below are our general checklists of tasks to get your landscape ready for the season to come.
April Checklist
Uncover and remove winter mulch from roses, spring bulbs, and perennials.
Divide and replant overgrown perennials as foliage begins to emerge.
Till flower and vegetable garden soil and add compost, peat moss, and any soil amendments.
Plant trees and shrubs as soon as the ground is thawed enough for digging; late frost and snow will not hurt newly planted trees.
Apply fresh mulch around trees, shrubs, and perennials for weed control.
Prune hedges and summer flowering shrubs; Make sure to check for winter damage and prune out broken branches. Do not prune any spring flowering shrubs.
Remove Tree wrap when the snow melts.
Fertilize trees and shrubs.
Fertilize spring bulbs when foliage emerges.
Cut back any of your perennials that did not get cut back in the fall. If you have a pollinator garden, wait until temperatures warm up before cutting back your perennials. Some pollinators won’t emerge until into May so the longer you can go before disturbing them the better.
Start your seeds indoors. Always check your seed packets for the seedling timing and keep in mind that our average last frost date is May 12th.
May Checklist
Apply crabgrass preventer to lawns. A good rule of thumb is to apply your crabgrass preventer when the lilacs are blooming.
Fertilize roses and begin preventative treatments to protect against black spot and mildew.
Mulch flower gardens to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth.
Install peony hoops and tomato cages.
Protect your garden from deer.
Plant summer blooming bulbs.
Plant annuals and vegetables after frost is no longer a danger. Our average last frost date is May 12th.
Apply pre-emergent weed control in planting beds.
Prune all spring flowering shrubs, like lilacs and forsythia, right after they have finished flowering.
Water freshly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials. (see our Watering 101 page)
Fertilize established trees, evergreens, and shrubs.
Rake, overseed, and fertilize your lawn; avoid applying crabgrass preventer to newly overseeded areas; seed new lawns while nights are still cool and the weather is wet.
Spray weeds as they emerge and before their seed heads form.
While these checklists are broken down by month do keep in mind that weather can affect the timing of some of these tasks.
Fruit Tree Spraying
We recommend spraying all of your fruit trees with a fruit tree spray to help protect them from common pests and diseases. Three major applications are important to protect your fruit trees.
1st application: When the buds are pink.
2nd application: Right after the blossoms have dropped
3rd application: One month after the second application.
If needed, you can continue to spray your fruit trees once a month through the summer.
Pruning is an essential part of maintaining your shrub’s shape, vigor, and overall health. Mastering how and when to prune different shrub varieties will lead to beautiful, lush shrubs that you can enjoy all season long. Below is our general guide on when to prune, different methods of pruning, and tips for successful pruning.
When to Prune
For shrubs that bloom on new growth, it is best to prune them in either the late winter or early spring. When pruning these shrubs, the ideal time to prune is after the hard frosts have passed but before plants break dormancy.
Prune in early spring: most hydrangea, potentilla, sumac, spirea, shrub roses (mid-May), grapes, arborvitae (April and May), and yew (April and May).
For shrubs that bloom in the spring on old wood or last season’s growth, it is best to prune them right after they have finished blooming. This allows the plant to spend the rest of the year developing new shoots and blooms for the following year.
Prune after blooming: lilac, forsythia, weigela, mock orange, rhododendron, viburnum, pink flowering almond, and magnolia.
As a general rule, you do not want to do a lot of shrub pruning in the fall. During the fall, shrubs are slowing their growth and hardening off their branches to prepare for the winter. Pruning your shrubs in the fall can stimulate new growth that may not be able to harden off before winter arrives. This can cause dieback of the stem in the winter which can lead to more damage to your plants. There are a few exceptions to this fall pruning rule including pruning out dead, diseased, or damaged branches. These branches can be detrimental to your shrubs over the winter as they can harbor disease.
How to Prune
One method of pruning is simply deadheading. Deadheading is done by cutting off the old flower cluster right at its base just above the new side shoots. Deadheading allows the plant to allocate more energy to developing new roots and shoots. This method is great for your shrubs that you are happy with the size and shape of. When you are deadheading, also take an overall look at your plant and prune out any damaged branches.
The second method of pruning is called tipping off. This method is used to control the size and shape of your shrubs. For this method, the entire top of the stem is cut back to the side shoot at the height/width desired. It is a good idea to start by pruning out any stems that are diseased or damaged and then continue pruning branches until you get your desired size and shape.
The third method of pruning is rejuvenation pruning. This method is best used for old, overgrown shrubs that are no longer as full as they once were. In this method, stems that are old, diseased, or overall less productive are cut down to the ground. This allows new, more productive shoots to grow in place of the old unproductive shoots. A general rule of thumb is to cut back no more than 1/3rd of the shrub at a time. In this method, that would mean you would cut back 1/3rd of the old stems to the ground one year and leave the rest of the stems alone. You would repeat this process for the following two years until all of the old stems have been cut back.
Use sharp and clean tools. Sharp tools not only make your work easier but plants also heal faster from clean cuts. If you are cutting out diseased stems make sure to disinfect your pruners before you continue pruning to reduce the risk of spreading the disease.
Prune just above the bud at the desired height. Pruning too far above the bud leaves an unsightly stub that can encourage rot. Cutting too low can lead to your bud drying out and can stunt new growth.
Prune at a 45-degree angle with the lowest point of the cut opposite of the bud. If you cut at an angle greater than 45 degrees, the cut will have a larger surface area that leads to slower healing and a greater risk for disease.
Only prune 1/3rd of the plant’s mass at a time. Overpruning can stress out your shrubs and harm the plant’s ability to recover and put on new growth. If your shrub needs a major pruning overhaul, spread out your pruning over multiple years.
For lopsided shrubs, prune the shorter/less full side to stimulate branching and new growth that will help to even out the shape of the shrub.
Need help pruning your shrubs? Our Maintenance Division is ready and willing to lend a hand. Contact them today!
When to plant
The proper time to plant bulbs is determined by when the bulbs bloom. Spring-blooming bulbs, like tulips, allium, and daffodils, should be planted in the fall while summer-blooming bulbs, like lilies and dahlias, should be planted in the spring.
Summer-blooming bulbs, also called tender bulbs, should be planted in the spring when the ground is warm and there is no longer a threat of frost. Since some summer-blooming bulbs are not winter-hardy, they must be dug up in the fall and stored until the following spring. Proper winter storage of these bulbs is crucial to whether the bulbs will succeed the following year.
Spring-blooming bulbs, also called fall bulbs or hardy bulbs, need approximately 12-16 weeks of cold weather to properly develop flower buds in the spring. When planting bulbs in the fall, keep an eye on the weather and wait until the daytime temperatures are consistently in the 60’s or lower. If the weather is too warm, it can cause premature growth, rotting bulbs, or poor development of the root system. When in doubt it’s better to wait until a light frost before planting, just make sure to get your bulbs in the ground before a hard freeze! Fall is also a great time to divide or move any existing bulbs that you have in the ground.
Steps to Bulb Planting Success
Choose your bulbs- When choosing your bulbs take into account the height of the bulb and the bloom time. Staggering the bloom time of your bulbs will help to extend the color through the season.
Check your soil- Make sure you are planting in an area with proper sunlight and well-draining soil. If the soil is dense, amend the soil with peat moss or gypsum to help increase drainage.
Plant your bulb at the proper depth- Check the back of your bulb package to determine the proper planting depth for your bulb variety as some bulbs will not flower if they are planted at the wrong depth. As a general rule, plant the bulb 2-3 times deeper than the height of the bulb. For example, a 2” bulb should be planted 4-6” deep.
Plant your bulbs- Place your bulbs into your hole with the pointed end towards the sky. If it is hard to distinguish which side is pointed, you can look for dried roots to indicate the bottom of the bulb.
Space out your bulbs- Check the back of your bulb package to determine the proper spacing of bulbs. For a bold pop of color, bulbs can be planted closer than recommended. Densely planted bulbs may not come back as strong the following season and will need to be divided sooner than properly spaced bulbs.
Add fertilizer- add compost or bone meal to your hole with your bulbs to help promote strong root development.
Cover your bulbs- Once you have your bulbs at the proper depth and space, cover the hole with soil.
Water your bulbs- Thoroughly water your new bulbs to settle the soil. After the initial watering, do not water the bulbs until you begin to see growth. Overwatering bulbs while they are dormant can lead to the bulbs rotting.
Digging up and Storing Bulbs
Cut any remaining foliage back to a couple of inches above the soil.
Carefully loosen the soil and remove the bulb.
Spread them out in a cool, shady place for a few days to allow the bulbs to dry out. Some bulbs are poisonous so make sure to keep them away from children or pets.
Store your bulbs in a cool, dark, dry location such as a basement or garage. It is best to store the bulbs in a container that can breathe, such as a paper bag or a mesh bag. Avoid storing bulbs in plastic as this can lead to your bulbs rotting.
Check your bulbs monthly for any signs of mold or rot.
