While a lush green lawn may be every dad’s dream, achieving this dream comes with plenty of challenges. One of the biggest challenges to maintaining a beautiful lawn is managing weeds. Two of the most common lawn weeds that we encounter are crabgrass and quackgrass. While crabgrass and quackgrass may look similar, their control treatments vary greatly. Learning the difference between these grasses and how to treat each will help to save you both time and money.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass is an annual weed that thrives in hot sun and poor turf. Crabgrass is known for its thick, yellowish-green blades that make it stand out from the surrounding turfgrass. With a unique flat growth habit, crabgrass tends to grow outward rather than upward. This leads to the crabgrass usually being lower than your mower blades. Since crabgrass is an annual, it spreads by seed and dies off every year. Crabgrass seeds have to wait for the soil temperatures to warm up before they can germinate. Because of this, crabgrass tends to appear more in the very late spring to early summer. If you are seeing nuisance grass early in the spring, it is likely quackgrass or tall fescue, not crabgrass. To control crabgrass, spread a granular pre-emergent weed control in the early spring (mid-April through mid-May). The pre-emergent will prevent the new crabgrass seeds from germinating. If you seed your lawn in the spring, make sure that you do not put down crabgrass preventer until your grass seed has sprouted, as the pre-emergent will prevent your grass seed from germinating. If you already have crabgrass that has emerged, spot treat with a crabgrass killer. Crabgrass can also be hand-pulled as the root system tends to be shallow and the roots stay clumped together. Each crabgrass plant can produce 150,000 seeds, and these seeds can stay viable in the soil for years. It is important to try and control crabgrass as soon as you see it so that it does not have time to develop and spread its seeds.
Quackgrass
Quackgrass is a fast-growing, cool-season perennial that emerges in the early spring. Like crabgrass, quackgrass has wide grass-like blades, but quackgrass has a more upright, tall habit than crabgrass. Since quackgrass is a perennial, it comes back every year and spreads by both underground rhizomes as well as by seed. Quackgrass is a cool-season plant, which means that it will do most of its active growing in the cooler seasons (spring and fall), and you will likely see quackgrass begin to pop up in the early spring. Quackgrass can only be treated with herbicides that contain glyphosate, like Roundup. These products will also kill the surrounding grass, so plan to reseed areas that you treat for quackgrass. Because of the extensive root system of quackgrass, hand pulling is often time-consuming and may not be as effective as chemical herbicides. If you decide to hand-pull your quackgrass, try to get as much of the root system as possible, as any rhizome missed can grow into a new plant. It is important to try and treat quackgrass as soon as possible, as quackgrass is an aggressive weed that can quickly take over an area. Quackgrass rhizomes can also produce a chemical that stunts the growth of surrounding plants, allowing the quackgrass to outcompete turfgrass.
Tips
Quackgrass and crabgrass both thrive in weak or thin lawns, so promoting a healthy, thick lawn with a deep root system can help prevent or lessen issues with weeds. Below are a few tips on how to keep your lawn full and flourishing.
Water properly: Industry experts recommend watering your lawn only once or twice a week. Both overwatering and underwatering can lead to weak lawns and can encourage the spreading of weeds.
Mow at the correct height: Allowing your lawn to grow taller can help your lawn grow thicker and develop a stronger root system. Taller grass shades out weed seeds and keeps your soil temperatures cooler which decreases the chances of seeds germinating. Experts recommend keeping your lawn between 3” to 4” tall and removing no more than 1/3rd of the leaf tissue when you mow.
Fertilizing: When used correctly, fertilizers can be an amazing tool to help you improve and maintain a lush lawn. Fertilizers are important as they supplement the soil with important nutrients that are often lost when clippings are removed when mowing. For lawns, look for a fertilizer with a higher concentration of nitrogen, as this is the nutrient that most lawns lack. To prevent burning, always make sure to follow the label directions and water after applying fertilizer (unless the label says otherwise).
As the weather warms up and the snow melts, some people may notice browning on parts of their evergreens. This browning is caused by winter desiccation also known as winterburn. Winterburn damage can range from mild cases, that just need a little pruning, to severe cases that can lead to the death of the plant.
Causes
In the winter when the ground is frozen, evergreen plants are unable to replace the water that is lost through their foliage. This loss of moisture leads to the browning and death of the foliage. Many factors can contribute to an increase in water loss and lead to winterburn damage including:
Lack of moisture during the growing season: Evergreen plants that go into the winter already stressed from a lack of moisture are more likely to suffer from winterburn.
Age of the plant: Young or newly planted evergreens do not have as established of root systems compared to older evergreens. This can exacerbate winterburn problems since these plants cannot draw up as much water from their roots.
Extreme winter conditions: Harsh winter sun and extreme wind can result in extra foliage moisture loss. This is why you will typically see winterburn on the south side of trees or in trees that are planted in unprotected areas. Extreme temperature fluctuations in the winter can also contribute to winterburn damage.
Lack of snow cover: Snow cover acts like an insulator in the winter and can help not only moderate the soil temperature, but it can also provide much-needed moisture in the early spring. When this snow cover is absent, evergreens are exposed to more extreme soil temperature fluctuations and overall drier soil conditions which can make them more prone to browning.
Late fertilization: Fertilizing evergreens in the fall can lead to a flush of new growth that is unable to harden off before winter arrives.
Treating Winterburn
Foliage that has already browned is most likely dead and will not green up again. This does not mean, however, that the entire branch is dead. In most evergreens, the buds are more cold-hardy than the needles and may still produce new growth in the spring. Mild cases of winterburn damage can usually be pruned out and after a few years, new foliage will fill in damaged areas. In severe cases where all or most of the tree is brown, the plant is unlikely to recover and should be replaced.
For arborvitaes, boxwoods, junipers, and yews, it is best to wait until mid-spring before pruning. This way you can see the new growth and can get a better idea of where to prune. When pruning, cut the branches back to the point where you begin to see new growth. If you are unsure whether the whole branch is dead, you can gently scratch the bark on the affected branch. If there is green underneath the bark, the branch is still alive and has the possibility of forming new foliage. If it is brown under the bark or if the branches are dry and snap easily, it is likely that the branch is most likely dead and should be pruned. It is always good to check your branches in multiple areas as the tips of the branches may be dead but further down there may be life in the branch.
Pines, spruce, and fir trees usually do not have to be pruned since the new growth at the tips of the branches will usually replace the damaged needles.
Prevention
While you may not be able to completely prevent winterburn, there are some steps that you can take to help reduce the risk and severity of winterburn.
One of the most important ways to help prevent winterburn is proper watering of your plants throughout the year. Proper watering is especially important in years where there are long extended dry periods. We want our evergreens to go into the winter well-hydrated so it is important to continue to water your plants up until the soil freezes. It is best to use a soaker or drip hose to water your evergreens as this ensures that the water is penetrating deep into the soil and reaching the roots. See our Watering 101 guide for more information about how to properly water your plants.
Picking the proper place for your evergreens can also help to prevent winterburn. Planting your evergreens in a protected area that is shielded from the drying winter sun and wind can help reduce the risk or severity of winterburn damage. Evergreens planted in unprotected areas can be wrapped in burlap to protect them through the winter. Wait to wrap your trees until the temperatures are in the mid-30s and be sure to remove the burlap when the temperatures begin to heat up in the spring to avoid overheating your plants.
Another way to protect your plants is by applying an anti-desiccant or anti-transpirant spray. These sprays create a protective coating on the evergreen needles that helps to lock the moisture in.
Lastly, avoid pruning or fertilizing your evergreens in the fall. Both pruning and fertilizing can lead to a flush of new growth that is unable to harden off before the freezing temperatures arrive. This tender new growth is at high risk of winter damage.
About Watering
Every plant requires three things air, soil, and, most of all, water. Proper watering is the key to healthy and beautiful plants as homeowners lose far more plants to overwatering than for any other reason. Overwatered plants are unable to uptake oxygen through their roots and are susceptible to issues such as root rot that, if severe, can cause death of the plant. Underwatered plants, however, are unable to absorb nutrients and water leading to wilting and eventually death.
How Much Water
Many factors play a role in how much water each specific plant needs. These factors include, but are not limited to: plant variety, temperature, humidity, wind, soil type, and soil condition. It is important to always check your soil before grabbing your hose or watering can. If the soil is still wet, wait to water until the soil is dry. We recommend digging down a few inches into the soil to check the moisture level. Sometimes the top of the soil may be dry but when you dig down a few inches, where your plant’s root system is, the soil may still be wet.
Below are our general watering guidelines for newly installed plants:
Trees: Once every two weeks, five to seven gallons of water
Shrubs: Once a week, three to five gallons of water
Perennials: Once a week initially, one gallon of water
Annuals: Once per day or every other day depending on the size of the planter.
Sprinkler Systems
Homeowners are under a mistaken assumption that their lawn needs frequent watering to maintain a healthy green color. Ideally, industry experts recommend running a sprinkler only once or twice a week. Watering your lawn frequently leads to a lawn with a shallow, weak root system since the roots don’t have to go searching for water. This leads to your lawn becoming dependent on a consistent water supply and causes your lawn to be susceptible to browning and dying during hot, dry conditions. If you have sprinklers that hit your landscaping plants, make sure to check your soil before doing any additional watering.
Watering Tips
A good deep watering less often is better than watering a little every day. It is suggested to begin deep watering early on with new plants. Plants that have frequent, shallow watering tend to develop a more shallow and weak root system compared to plants that have less frequent, deeper watering. Plants with strong, extensive root systems are better able to handle stress and drought conditions.
Always test the soil before you water. Some plants can look droopy because of the heat, and not necessarily because they are dry. Make sure the soil is dry before watering.
It is better to err on the side of keeping your soil too dry rather than too wet. The soil needs to dry out between watering for plants to be able to absorb oxygen and live. Consistently wet soil can lead to issues with root rot and other diseases that can eventually kill your plants.
If it rains more than one inch, there is no need to water. Count the rain as your watering day and start your watering cycle over.
Water plants at the base not over the top. Watering on top of the leaves can promote fungus and other leaf diseases. Also, putting super cold water on leaves when it is how outside can damage your plants.
The best time of day to water is in the morning. If you can, water your plants in the morning. That way, they have time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. This also allows them to not stay wet overnight, which can lead to fungus and disease problems.
Some plants need more water than others. Become familiar with your landscape and learn which plants need water more often than others.
Although it isn’t officially fall until late September, once school starts we know we all start to transition seasons.
The leaves start changing and the temperatures get a little lower, giving us more energy to get things done we’ve been putting off during the 90+ degree days.
SO WHAT ABOUT INSTALLING NEW PLANTS?
Believe it or not, fall is an incredible time to get your planting done. The soil is still warm while the air is cooling down which allows the plant to focus on root development.
Trees and shrubs can be planted through October, whereas perennials should be planted by the first part of October to give them enough time to establish their roots before hitting freezing temperatures.
While fall is often cooler and rainy, newly installed plants shouldn’t be forgotten when it comes to watering, especially if it is hot, dry or windy. Before you pull your hoses in for the winter, Continue to water perennials once a week (1 gallon), shrubs once every 7-10 days (3-5 Gallons) and trees once every 10-14 days (5-7 Gallons) until the ground freezes.
Don’t be alarmed when you don’t see growth on your new plants, that’s actually a good thing. We do not recommend using fertilizer past the beginning of August, but would suggest using a root stimulator instead.
Fall planting is with the intention of root development and getting off to a good start in their new home. Come spring, your plants will grow as if they’re already had a full season under their belt.
WHAT ABOUT MUMS?
Well, mums are a little tricky to overwinter in the midwest (Yes, even Hardy Mums). They add great color in your planters after the summer annuals are done thriving. However, if you plan on planting them in the ground, make sure to plant early and add a protective barrier around the base of the plant with mulch or leaves to insulate the root system during the winter months.
In fact, we recommend adding a layer of mulch around the base of all plants for extra insulation, even established plants benefit from the protection.
The dog days of summer, when temperatures reach their peak, are here. Help save your drooping flowers from the heat of summer by being proactive, and get the best yield possible from your plants by refreshing the fertilizer in your pots, garden and lawn.
At Oakridge Nursery, we carry only the finest fertilizer from Fertilome. We have a variety of types on hand, including slow release fertilizer, which produces maximum yields slowly, over the course of three months, and fast-acting water soluble fertilizer, which gets into the root system quickly.
This time of year, your tired plants could use a boost of phosphorus to promote full color, blooming and fruiting well into the fall! We have the know-how and the fertilizer you need to do just that.
Give your garden, plants and lawn the boost they need, and maximize their performance during July and August, when the summer sun is hottest.
Whether you grow them in attractive tubs on your patio or in a full-scale vegetable garden, you know there’s nothing better than the flavor of a home-grown tomato. BLTs, tomato jelly, salsa, and hamburgers topped with a big tomato slice…that’s the true acknowledgment that summer is here. But each year, home gardeners, waiting eagerly for their tomatoes to ripen, are faced with annoying tomato diseases and environmental stresses. The most common is blossom end rot.
Blossom end rot shows up as a water-soaked brown or black spot on the blossom end of the fruit. These spots enlarge rapidly and may grow together forming extensive areas of damage. Affected areas are commonly invaded by secondary fungi and bacteria that cause soft rot and fruit decay.
Blossom end rot commonly occurs when plants have grown rapidly and luxuriantly during the early part of the season and then are subject to fluctuation in moisture (too much or too little) when the fruits are at an early stage of development. These fluctuations or an excess of nitrogen fertilizer causes a lack of calcium in the developing tomato.
To control blossom end rot, mulch and water plants during dry spells to maintain uniform soil moisture levels. Avoid excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers or large quantities of manure. Plant tomatoes in well-draining soil and do not cultivate deeper than one inch within one foot of the plant.
Calcium sprays, such as Rot Stop, can be applied as a preventative measure or can be sprayed at the first sign of disease. If you have a lot of tomato plants and don’t want to deal with the hassle of spraying them all, slow-release tomato-specific fertilizers that are high in calcium can be applied to your garden beds. Looking for a more organic option, you can crush up eggshells and sprinkle them around your garden bed to give your tomatoes a much-needed source of calcium.
Blossom end rot is found wherever tomatoes are grown. The rotted areas are unsightly but the unaffected part of the fruit is edible. Blossom end rot usually disappears after the first group of tomatoes matures.
If we’ve learned anything about South Dakota it’s that we can never predict what weather spring will bring. While a forecast of sunny days brings excitement, it also reminds us of the work we need to do to get our landscaping in tip-top shape. Below are our general checklists of tasks to get your landscape ready for the season to come.
April Checklist
Uncover and remove winter mulch from roses, spring bulbs, and perennials.
Divide and replant overgrown perennials as foliage begins to emerge.
Till flower and vegetable garden soil and add compost, peat moss, and any soil amendments.
Plant trees and shrubs as soon as the ground is thawed enough for digging; late frost and snow will not hurt newly planted trees.
Apply fresh mulch around trees, shrubs, and perennials for weed control.
Prune hedges and summer flowering shrubs; Make sure to check for winter damage and prune out broken branches. Do not prune any spring flowering shrubs.
Remove Tree wrap when the snow melts.
Fertilize trees and shrubs.
Fertilize spring bulbs when foliage emerges.
Cut back any of your perennials that did not get cut back in the fall. If you have a pollinator garden, wait until temperatures warm up before cutting back your perennials. Some pollinators won’t emerge until into May so the longer you can go before disturbing them the better.
Start your seeds indoors. Always check your seed packets for the seedling timing and keep in mind that our average last frost date is May 12th.
May Checklist
Apply crabgrass preventer to lawns. A good rule of thumb is to apply your crabgrass preventer when the lilacs are blooming.
Fertilize roses and begin preventative treatments to protect against black spot and mildew.
Mulch flower gardens to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth.
Install peony hoops and tomato cages.
Protect your garden from deer.
Plant summer blooming bulbs.
Plant annuals and vegetables after frost is no longer a danger. Our average last frost date is May 12th.
Apply pre-emergent weed control in planting beds.
Prune all spring flowering shrubs, like lilacs and forsythia, right after they have finished flowering.
Water freshly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials. (see our Watering 101 page)
Fertilize established trees, evergreens, and shrubs.
Rake, overseed, and fertilize your lawn; avoid applying crabgrass preventer to newly overseeded areas; seed new lawns while nights are still cool and the weather is wet.
Spray weeds as they emerge and before their seed heads form.
While these checklists are broken down by month do keep in mind that weather can affect the timing of some of these tasks.
Fruit Tree Spraying
We recommend spraying all of your fruit trees with a fruit tree spray to help protect them from common pests and diseases. Three major applications are important to protect your fruit trees.
1st application: When the buds are pink.
2nd application: Right after the blossoms have dropped
3rd application: One month after the second application.
If needed, you can continue to spray your fruit trees once a month through the summer.
Check out these general summer care tips to make sure your lawn, garden and trees stay healthy and green all summer long. It has been a hot season, and now, more than ever, you need to make sure your garden and home landscape are getting the proper attention.
GENERAL SUMMER SEASON TIPS
Stake larger varieties of perennials such as delphiniums
Begin leaf spot control on tomato plants and stake young tomato plants; late staking contributes to blossom end rot
Tie climbing roses to trellises
Perform last picking of rhubarb at the end of the month to allow roots to store energy for the next season
Mulch you garden after the soil has warmed up later in the month
Fertilize lawns, flowers, and gardens
Continue weeding
Prune and shape new growth on arborvitae, juniper, and yew
Trim evergreens and hedges
Prune pines, spruce, and fir trees early to mid June
Pruning is an essential part of maintaining your shrub’s shape, vigor, and overall health. Mastering how and when to prune different shrub varieties will lead to beautiful, lush shrubs that you can enjoy all season long. Below is our general guide on when to prune, different methods of pruning, and tips for successful pruning.
When to Prune
For shrubs that bloom on new growth, it is best to prune them in either the late winter or early spring. When pruning these shrubs, the ideal time to prune is after the hard frosts have passed but before plants break dormancy.
Prune in early spring: most hydrangea, potentilla, sumac, spirea, shrub roses (mid-May), grapes, arborvitae (April and May), and yew (April and May).
For shrubs that bloom in the spring on old wood or last season’s growth, it is best to prune them right after they have finished blooming. This allows the plant to spend the rest of the year developing new shoots and blooms for the following year.
Prune after blooming: lilac, forsythia, weigela, mock orange, rhododendron, viburnum, pink flowering almond, and magnolia.
As a general rule, you do not want to do a lot of shrub pruning in the fall. During the fall, shrubs are slowing their growth and hardening off their branches to prepare for the winter. Pruning your shrubs in the fall can stimulate new growth that may not be able to harden off before winter arrives. This can cause dieback of the stem in the winter which can lead to more damage to your plants. There are a few exceptions to this fall pruning rule including pruning out dead, diseased, or damaged branches. These branches can be detrimental to your shrubs over the winter as they can harbor disease.
How to Prune
One method of pruning is simply deadheading. Deadheading is done by cutting off the old flower cluster right at its base just above the new side shoots. Deadheading allows the plant to allocate more energy to developing new roots and shoots. This method is great for your shrubs that you are happy with the size and shape of. When you are deadheading, also take an overall look at your plant and prune out any damaged branches.
The second method of pruning is called tipping off. This method is used to control the size and shape of your shrubs. For this method, the entire top of the stem is cut back to the side shoot at the height/width desired. It is a good idea to start by pruning out any stems that are diseased or damaged and then continue pruning branches until you get your desired size and shape.
The third method of pruning is rejuvenation pruning. This method is best used for old, overgrown shrubs that are no longer as full as they once were. In this method, stems that are old, diseased, or overall less productive are cut down to the ground. This allows new, more productive shoots to grow in place of the old unproductive shoots. A general rule of thumb is to cut back no more than 1/3rd of the shrub at a time. In this method, that would mean you would cut back 1/3rd of the old stems to the ground one year and leave the rest of the stems alone. You would repeat this process for the following two years until all of the old stems have been cut back.
Use sharp and clean tools. Sharp tools not only make your work easier but plants also heal faster from clean cuts. If you are cutting out diseased stems make sure to disinfect your pruners before you continue pruning to reduce the risk of spreading the disease.
Prune just above the bud at the desired height. Pruning too far above the bud leaves an unsightly stub that can encourage rot. Cutting too low can lead to your bud drying out and can stunt new growth.
Prune at a 45-degree angle with the lowest point of the cut opposite of the bud. If you cut at an angle greater than 45 degrees, the cut will have a larger surface area that leads to slower healing and a greater risk for disease.
Only prune 1/3rd of the plant’s mass at a time. Overpruning can stress out your shrubs and harm the plant’s ability to recover and put on new growth. If your shrub needs a major pruning overhaul, spread out your pruning over multiple years.
For lopsided shrubs, prune the shorter/less full side to stimulate branching and new growth that will help to even out the shape of the shrub.
Need help pruning your shrubs? Our Maintenance Division is ready and willing to lend a hand. Contact them today!
Have you noticed any spots like this on your trees or shrubs?
With the abundance of snow and lack of food sources available to deer and rabbits, our plants tend to fall victim to this damage known as girdling.
Girdling occurs when animals chew the outer layer of bark off a branch, harming the cambium layer.
The cambium layer is responsible for transportation of nutrients through the xylem and phloem. Once this layer has been chewed through all the way around the branch or trunk, the transportation becomes disrupted and the nutrients fail to continue on past the chewed area.
Unfortunately, once this happens the tree will slowly die. In some cases, a shrub can make a comeback if pruned below the girdled area. If you’ve noticed a small area has been chewed on, but isn’t a complete ring around the branch or trunk, your plant should come out unharmed.
The best way to prevent girdling is to use plastic trunk protectors or paper tree wrap from the ground up to the lowest branch. The best time to apply the protective barrier is in fall, but if you’re noticing damage can be applied mid-winter. White plastic trunk protectors can be left on trees until the bark has matured.
It should be noted that sometimes a tree will leaf out after being girdled due to stored nutrients; eventually it will die.
